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dual battery
Submitted: Thursday, May 09, 2002 at 00:00
stuart
what do people recomended as a dual battery standard cca,marine or deep cycle. for running a
fridge
and light only. regards
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ThreadID:
1107
Replies:
5
Views:
602
FollowUps:
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This Thread has been Archived
Thread Summary
AnswerID: 3439 Submitted: Friday, May 10, 2002 at 00:00
P.G. (Tas)
replied: G'day Stuart, I am going down this road now. The general consensus seems to be (a) for a
fridge
, light, 12 volt
camping
accessories
etc - Deep Cycle & (b) for winching or any other items that take huge amounts of current in short bursts etc - Starting Battery. I have been looking at all the smart controllers (and their costs) and decided I can buy a high amperage (345amp) marine switch and switch between the batteries manually (with the engine switched off to prevent spikes of course). This switch has Bat1, Bat2, and Bat1+2. How simple is that? Complete costs of set up- switch $40, extra battery cable- about $9 metre, additional battery terminals- about $20, hold down bracket and tray- $20 from wreckers, 75 amp/hour battery- about $140. Complete system for about $250.00. OK, it not as fancy as the electronic type controllers, and you do have to think about it, but (a) it is simple, ie, less to go wrong and if it does go wrong you can fix it easily and (b) another option and less than half the price! That bit got my attention! Hope this helps. Cheers!
Reply 1 of 5
AnswerID: 3441 Submitted: Friday, May 10, 2002 at 00:00
john
replied: Stuart, I looked at all aspects, have used deep cycle, start batteries and odessey batteries and have finally settled on 2 x 6 volt 220 amp/hr deep cycles. To charge these I have decided on a Arrid Twin charge from the 12 volt
Shop
in WA. This charger can put out up to 20 amps at a constant 14.7 volts, with an input voltage of 8-15 volts, I think that is correct, full details on there web site. http://www.12volt.com.au/ This allows the deep cycles to fully charge, unlike some systems. From what I have researched, it seems to be the "best". Not really expensive at $299.00. Have only used it locally up to now, but it performs well. The real test will come in July/August in the Kimberely. Hope this helps.
Reply 2 of 5
FollowupID: 1397 Submitted: Friday, May 10, 2002 at 00:00
Nigel posted:
That charger sounds like the perfect solution for deep cycles. Just rig it up so it only switches on when the motor is running.
FollowUp 1 of 1
AnswerID: 3442 Submitted: Friday, May 10, 2002 at 00:00
Ray
replied: Hi Stuart
To run the
fridge
and light you require a deep cycle battery, one that allows for slow discharge, can go down to flat and be charged up again. The cca batteries are unsuitable and the marine are some where in between. The cca battery is use for the winch as well as starting, as it needs high discharge and fast recharge.
The next decision is separation of the batteries, I use a smart solenoid, means that I won't forget to switch it on and with many of the new systems in cars they won't even roll start if there is no charge in the battery.
Ray
Reply 3 of 5
AnswerID: 3447 Submitted: Friday, May 10, 2002 at 00:00
Nigel
replied: Keep in mind that while a traditional deep cycle battery will last longer, it will not fully charge off the alternator and to get the best from it you should regularly charge it off a mains charger. I use a Arlec 10 amp (rms) charger to keep my 95 Ah deep cycle running happily.
Reply 4 of 5
AnswerID: 3456 Submitted: Saturday, May 11, 2002 at 00:00
Jethro
replied: For simplicity, 2 CCA batteries works well. Don't have one of each type, or, as Nigel suggests, the deep cycle will not charge. (mine died within 12 mths!) Liemack Fridges recommends having both batteries paralleled at all times, and an adjustable low voltage cut-out on the
fridge
. The cut-out prevents the batteries from "deep cycling", so there is no need for the extra expense. The flash battery isolators are great while working, but I know a few bods who've ripped them out after failure.
Reply 5 of 5
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