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 Vic High Country Hut Tour 23-25/05/08 - Photos and Tracks Added

Submitted: Monday, May 26, 2008 at 09:35
Well, the plan was hatched. Rob and I had been chatting at work on where the next 'swag' trip should be. The Plan, was to see a bit more of the High Country again before the gates were shut for winter. Our wives wanted to see Craig's hut, mine in particular, since the Boy's Trip of 2005, when I went there with work mates.

I know, I know, Craig's Hut isn't a real hut & they've wasted thousands rebuilding it instead of rebuilding genuine huts - BUT - to keep the wives happy we were going - and we were planning on seeing a few 'genuine' huts on the way.

Now, as I said, The Plan was hatched. That was the easy bit. That night sitting on the couch with laptop mapping, paper maps and the internet I checked open and closed tracks getting an idea of where we could and couldn't go. I was surprised at how much work the DSE and local Shires had done since last year's fires. They really had done a top job getting our bush back on track.

After a couple of hours I decided to do a 'reverse' trip of a previous trip. This was a few years ago and neither Rob or his wife Dannii, nor my wife, Sarah, and the kids, had done it.

A couple of emails later to confirm the route and it was set in stone. Over the next day or so we checked gear and organised the roster at work to allow us both the get away for the weekend.

I must add, we started camping together in campers. Rob & Dannii in their imported Coleman camper. Sarah, the kids and I in the Kimberley Kamper. It was an interest in getting to more 'bushier' spots that forced us back into the swags. That was a trip into Wonnangatta a year ago and now we seem to alternate between mobile swag camping and base camp with the campers - but I digress;

'The Plan' was to leave Stratford at 1315hrs. We would sneak the kids out of school at 1300hrs and be off! A few emergencies at Dannii's work saw Rob and Dannii delayed. We ended up leaving without them at about 1400hrs. Kids fed and tucked in; we were off.

We travelled from Stratford to Briagolong and then onto Marathon Road. Marathon Road is a good road which ends near the Pinnacles in the High Country. It provides fast access and allows us to get away from it all just that bit quicker. It is a seasonally closed road as it often gets a impenetrable layer of snow on it over winter. It is a 4WD only road at the moment. Ninety percent could be done in a commodore, but the last 10% requires either High first or low range. A softroader would make it at the moment.

Once at the top of Marathon Road we travelled the ten or so minutes to Moroka Road and then back down to Arbuckle Junction.

Turning right at Arbuckle had us travelling roughly NW on the Howitt Road. The stop for the night was to be at Howitt Hut.

A quick brake test and a small amount of reversing (I often miss the drive) saw us drive into the camping area surrounding the Howitt Hut. According to some books and internet sites, Howitt Hut is the third highest hut in Victoria. I'm not sure about this, but it is at a substantial elevation. The air was cool to say the least.

We followed the tried and tested 'set-up' routine. Number one son, Lachlan, 11yrs, and I, began to setup the kids tent, the tarp for the swags and our swags, whilst Sarah and number one daughter, Taylor, 9yrs, collected wood and got the fire going.

Night Shot of Howitt Campfire
Night Shot of Howitt Campfire


The new Oztrail tent went up without fuss, a 3V dome for the kids. The rubber backed travel rug went down, followed by the self-inflating mats, then the sleeping bags and doonas. Next was the tarp between two trees, swags down, all done.

Now, firewood. Not much firewood around at the hut camping area. A scout further afield had us with enough to see us through the night and the next morning.

It wasn't long and the kids were asking what number Rob was. I then realised they were talking about the Selcall on the UHF radio. I went over to the Cruiser and had a quick conversation with Rob. He was about five minutes off camp and everything was falling back into place/plan.

Once Rob and Dannii arrived and set-up we got dinner started. We generally have something quick the first night which makes things just that bit easier if we get delayed or have to detour.

The temperature started to drop and the kids decided it was time for bed. For the adults it was time for a few quiet drinks around the fire and then a port or two to warm the cockles. There was ice on the ground and the mud crunched underfoot.

I disappeared for a few minutes every now and again. Experimenting with the new camera to get a good night shot of Howitt Hut - it is still a learning curve.

Howitt Hut at Night
Howitt Hut at Night


The next morning saw me check the engel thermometer - low of -2.0c in the truck. A quick check of everyone found we all had a toasty nights sleep. Breakfast followed and then pack-up and hit the dirt.

We broke camp at about 0945hrs and continued on along Howitt Road. We then took King Billy 1 to our next main intersection. The track was wet but stable. Every now and again there were patches of snow along the road. Every puddle we drove through shattered - much to the amusement of the kids. At the cross-road we headed North'ish on Bluff Track.

As we continued on towards Craig's Hut and the meeting point for other friends, we stopped at Lovick's hut. This hut is currently being rebuilt. The poles are all standing and masked off with black plastic presumably to keep the poles from splitting. As we looked around the sounds of baying hounds filled the air. As they got closer we observed a sambar deer at full tilt with a couple of beagles in pursuit. Deer hunters frequent this area in their quest for venison - not the best place to bush walk wearing a driaza-bone.....

Another quick drive along Bluff Track saw us at Bluff Hut. Bluff Hut is also being rebuilt. This one by the Stoney Family, with assistance from locals and Parks. The hut appears almost complete. The area is still roped off so we didn't go in to look around. A 4wd Tour arrived so we left to make room for their seven vehicles.

Bluff Hut almost complete
Bluff Hut almost complete


Numerous motorbikes and 4wd's were encounter on this stretch of track. Waves and comments were exchanged as well as previous road conditions. We continued on a short way and then turned onto 16 Mile Jeep Track and down onto the Howqua River at Pikes Flat.

About 1300hrs saw us stop briefly at Bindaree Hut. This is a small log hut which has the appearance of being swallowed by the earth. I'm not sure if it has sunk or was made small. You have to duck to go through the door. Th air was cooling in the valleys and we had to push on as the meeting time at Craigs was between 1200-1300hrs. I had fired off an SMS during a brief reception time, but didn't get a response. Onward, to Bindaree Road to pick up the pace a little.

Bindaree Hut, were they short?
Bindaree Hut, were they short?


About half an hour later and we were at the bottom of Monument Track. Not long now. I'd been down this track a few years earlier and can still hear the crunching of the rear bar on those steps. The track was damp but not muddy and a few vehicles had come down whilst we stopped briefly at the bottom. So we should be right.

I had the Mickey T mud tyres on for this trip and Rob had the Cooper STs. I selected low range, 2nd, turned the compressor on for the diff locks and headed up.

I was surprised by the track conditions - good. A bit wet but no mud as such. No steps at all. There were a few erosion points on the inside of a couple of switchbacks - something that may catch the unwary - but all in all, a good track. A brief conversation on the UHF with Crash - our mate waiting at the top to let him know where we were - we were almost at the top. The lockers weren't required.

Once at the top, at the intersection of Clear Hills Track, I had a quick chat to another 4wd'er who was considering going down. Allaying his fears we continued the five or ten minutes to Craigs. I actually found this part of the track worse (more mud) than Monument Track.

We rolled into the Craig's carpark and stopped. Crash, our other mate, came over to us. I couldn't believe the people - they were everywhere. The mandatory photo shoots of Craigs and the scenery and then back to carpark for lunch.

Craigs Hut, take three.
Craigs Hut, take three.


Once under way again we let Crash lead as this was more his patch than ours. We were travelling on Circuit Road to the Mansfield-Mt Buller Road towards Merijig. We picked up the pace once we hit the bitumen and then turning off again saw us arrive at Sheepyard Flat. There were quite a few campers and motor bikers around. We decided to push on just a bit more and then we entered Fry's camping area. There were a couple of camps here but it looked like a great spot so we stopped and setup for the night. I would recommend Fry's over Sheepyard - depending on numbers of other campers. Crash did mention that during long weekends it is almost 'standing room only' around these spots.

Again, the problem with popular campsites is the lack of firewood. We headed out in Crash's vehicle and found some wood a few km's from camp. After loading the roof rack we headed back. The girls had already got the fire going and the camp oven was warming. The second night is traditionally roast night - and always lamb. Rob and Dannii supply the meat, Sarah and I do the veggies and dessert.

Roast lamb, potatoes, carrots, sweat potato and pumpkin - magnificently cooked in the camp oven, followed by apple pie and whipped cream. No wonder the kids like camping - they get fed better on the road than at home!

The next morning, and a couple of photos of Fry's Hut, we said our goodbyes to Crash. He was heading back to Melbourne and we were heading back to Gippsland.

Frys Hut
Frys Hut


Once we were all packed we headed off towards Tobacco Flat along the Howqua Hills Track. It was pretty wet at Tobacco Flat so we didn't stop. We pushed on past the Slate Mines and into Mitchells. Calls of 'lunch time' from the party had us looking for a spot to stop. Some steep sections required low-range - but nothing too drastic for a fully loaded 100 series.

We continued along Howqua Hills Track to Mitchells Track through the Slate Mines. It was cold and frosty in near the Mitchells Homestead site so we didn't stop. The Rooftop maps indicate an underground waterfall and a few interesting things to see - another trip maybe. As the map said - 'clay country' - we got through with minimal slippage. I wouldn't recommend this track after rain. The entire track is red clay and would soon be trecherous in the wet.

A short time later we stopped at Wren's Flat camping area. There were some deer hunters camped here. They were going out to look for a few lost hounds - but they offered their campfire if we needed to cook anything. We thanked them, but in the end didn't need to use a fire.

After finishing lunch it was the last leg of the trip. We started on the Mt Sunday Road before picking up the Licola-Jamieson Road back into Licola where we stopped to grab something at the Store.

The Licola Store has been hit hard over the last couple of years. The initial damage the fires caused to the area caused Parks to shut down the park preventing tourists from spending their money at the store. Then the ensuring rains caused mud slides and flooding that filled homes and the shop. Licola was cutoff for some months before bridges could be repaired. With this finally done - some bridges are still tempory but access is back - the Licola General Store is open for business.

We then started the drive home. All on bitumen and home.

The vehicles performed well with no problems. Both were Toyota 100 Series Turbo Diesels - both kitted for touring. The only fix required was to tighten a winch bolt on Rob's winch - it had come loose under vibration.

All in all - a great trip. The next one - the Queen's Birthday weekend - with the campers - now to arrange that roster again....

Post script - I just received and email from Crash - saying he was glad he didn't travel back with us. Halfway home his clutch began to slip and he had to nurse it along to get home - probably not what he would have wanted coming our way into Mitchells and then over Mt Skeen.

Tim (& Sarah) - Stratford.

Tags: 4WD, Accom/Campsites, Camping
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26 May 2008 - Vic High Country Hut Tour 23-25/05/08 - Photos and Tracks Added
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